Farmer Blue Granny Square Afghan

Materials:

Red Heart yarn in colors of Navy Blue, Teal, Metalic White, and Cream/Off White

Crochet Hook size US I

Yarn needle.

Motifs are 7 x 10.

Motifs:

Using color navy blue

CH 4, join

Rnd 1:  CH 3, 2DC, *CH 2, 3DC* repeat * 3 times, ch2 slip into top of the ch 3.  (4 sets of DC), slip st to CH2 sp.

Rnd 2:  (CH 3, 2DC, CH 2, 3DC) in same CH2 sp, * CH 1, (3 DC, CH2, 3DC) in next ch2 sp *, repeat * 3 times, CH1, slip in top of the 3ch, fasten off.  Slip tail in next 2 dc sts.

Rnd 3: Join Metalic White in the 2 CH space corner of where tail is at with tail inside the join using a sl st method.  CH 3, 2 DC into the same CH2 sp with the tails inside the bottom of each dc, Drop the tails, CH2, 3DC in same CH2 sp.  * (CH1, 3DC in next CH1 sp) twice, CH1 3DC CH2 3DC in next 2CH sp* repeat 3 times.  Fasten off color just like row 2.

Rnd 4:  Joining is the same as the 3rd row using Navy Blue color.  Now seeing your square, corners get 3DC CH2 3DC, in the row CH1, 3DC CH1, all the way around.

Make all motifs first before making the joining round.

Joining Round:  Color Teal.

Joining motifs are a bit trickier.  Row 1:  The first motif for round 5 is the same as all other previous rnds.  The 2nd motif you use only one side to join as follows:  Join yarn, CH3, 2DC Ch 2 3 DC in same corner space, (CH1 3DC) repeat across.  Then when at the corner, CH1, 3DC, then CH1, SL stitch with 2CH sp corner of joining motif with right sides together, CH1, 3DC.  Now with the sides facing each other, instead of making a CH1, do a sl into the CH1 sp of the motif to attach.  Then 3 DC in the next ch1 sp, repeat going across.  Then at the next corner, do the same as the previous corner.  Then work the rest of the motif as previous rounds.  Repeat this to the next motifs till you have 7 motifs joined in your row.

Follow this procedure throughout the rest of the rows:

Row 2 1st motif:  Now that you have your first row together and completed, now row 2 works off of that 1st row where you have to make the 2nd row and join with the 1st row.  1st motif of the second row is simular.  Work one side to begin, then when you get to the corner, 3DC, CH1, SL into 2CH sp on corner of first ch2  sp of previous row 1st motif, then CH1, 3DC.  Then instead of making a CH1, sl into CH1 sp on attaching row CH1 sp, 3 DC in CH1 sp, then continue till you reach the corner.  Now this is trickier.   Do your 3DC in the CH2 spc, then CH1, SL into the CH2 spc of the 2nd Motif, not the one above the work, then CH1, 3 DC, then continue to work around the motif.

Row 2 2nd motif:  Now this motif has to join with the motif on the same row that you are creating and the existing row above using 2 sides of your motif.  You first start your work doing one side as normal, then use the next side as the joing to the motif on the row you are creating, same procedure as row 1, then when at the corner instead of using the 2CH SP directly above and directly across, you use the one of the crisscross as it follows:  3 DC, CH1, SL into the CH2 sp crisscross from your work, CH 1, 3 DC, then work the row above your motif joining like above all the way across just like the fist motif on the 2nd row.  Then complete the motif as you normally do.

Once you get into the hang of making your rows, you will find it to be very simple.

Border:

Then when you have all your rows attached.  Now the border.  You slip a stitch into the corner of your project.  Then CH 5, sc in the same CH2 space, CH 5, sc in the next ch1 sp, and repeat around.  Every CH 2 sp gets to CH 5 and SC, and every 1 CH sp gets only 1.

Then in each of the CH5 spc gets SC, 1 HDC, 2 DC, 1 HDC, then 1 SC around.  Then your project is complete.  Bind in all your tails, trim, and it is complete.

Have fun completing your project!

 Country Style Desk

The country style desk is an L shape desk measuring 6 ft in length by 25 inches in width for the long side and 22 inches by 25 inches on the side of the L shape.  First I assembled the shorter part of the table top.  I used 5 5.5 inch across boards and cut them to 22 inches each.  Then on the 5th board, I cut the length way measureing 3 inches to make an even 25 inch width for that part of the table top.

 

I used a Kreg jig to make the pocket holes 6 inches apart for each board to assemble into a flat level board using wood glue on both of the adjoining sides, then used screws to make them a solid join.  I left it rest overnight till the glue dries.

Then I took the 6 ft boards and did the same routine.  With the longer boards, the pocketholes are drilled 12 inches apart, and using a side board to make sure the sides are a flat flush while joining them together.  As pictured below.

Then taking the smaller table and aligning it with the longer table, combine the smaller table to the larger table with wood glue and 4 pockethole screws to make it a solid piece.  Leave it dry over night for the table to become solid.

When adjoining the longer boards together, make sure there are no warps, crooks, and bends into the boards.  I had to replace 2 boards due to that.  When picking out boards, lay them flat on the floor and make sure it is flush to the floor.  Then have then on the side and make sure the edge is flat to the floor from one end to the other.  If you see any area of no contact to the floor, the board will have to be placed aside and another board will have to be picked.

After you have your table top put together, now it is time to make the base.  The base legs are the use of 2 x 4s.  You will need 6 28.5 inch length, 4 18 inches length, and 2 16 inches length.  Make sure they are not warped, crooked, nor bends in the wood, and have no bark nor rough cut edges.  This will make 3 legs supports for the base of the desk.  You assemble will drilled in sink holes and using 2.5 inch wood screws, predrill holes before assembling.  Use 2 16 inch with 2 28.5 inch 2x4s, then 2 18 inch with 2 28.5 inch 2x4s, then 2 18 inch with 2 28.5 inch 2x4s.  Long side out with short side in when assembling.  The picture below is what you will form:

Make sure everything is flush in perfect corners of 90 degree.  Then next you need to make 1 inch strips for the braces for inside each leg.  Make the strips long enough so it can reach right corner bottom to left corner top.  Make the inside mark with a pencil and then use a flat saw to saw the markings of those angles while clamped to a sturdy surface.  Then check for perfect fit, then add wood glue to the end and tap it in either with your hand or a rubber mallot softly.  Then do the same for the other left corner bottom to the right corner top.  Then repeat on the other 2 legs.  After you are done, it will look like this:

If you are going to stain your base, do the stainng first, let it dry, then do the assembly.  Then once the braces are all on, then add a back design like I did to create a starlike affect.

The boards are 2 inches and by the width of each leg base.  Then you use the table saw, make it 1/8 of an inch, then route it in direct center of the middle piece, then put the verticle line in the center of all 3 boards.  Then have the middle piece directly in the middle and the outer pieces abot halfway from the edge and center board, making sure everything is well alligned.

Now at his point, the new desk is looking something like this below:

Keep coming back for more features I am doing onto this project.  Thank you for watching.